Thursday, May 30, 2013

JerusalemILoveYou

It was erev Shavuot when we decided to go to a day trip to Jerusalem. The weather was beautiful, savta* didn't work and could babysit Galushki, visiting Kotel on erev hag* was a given. Everything seemed to work our way and what a great day for driving. 







I love Jerusalem. I spent there 4 interesting years studying in Bezalel. It wasn't love from the first sight, as at first I hated the stone that the buildings are built from. But gradually it grew on me and at some point I liked it even more then Tel-Aviv though these are really two totally different things. Jerusalem is much more conservative place, tough in its outlook, ancient, full of hidden corners and secret gems. It needs to be discovered. You can easily spend there weeks wondering around. We had only one day to catch up. And so there was the Gesher haMeitarim at the city's entrance. Designed by spanish architect Santiago Calatrava the bridge connects between two neighborhoods Kiriat Moshe and Tahana Mercazit. This was the first time I saw it finished and it reminded me of a white swan. I thought it is a beautiful sculpture, but it was difficult to place it in Jerusalem, it felt like it would fit much better at the Tel-Aviv skyline...
We parked in the city center and started to stroll down the Midrachov to the Yaffo st. The Midrachov  has been expanded to the Bezalel area and got filled with coffee shops, cafes, designer stores etc. 
This is where I have spent 4 years of my life-many days and many many white nights. 








When we have finally reached Yaffo st, there was another surprise - the train. Five years ago this was one of the busiest streets in the city with lots of traffic. I couldn't believe my eyes!
We moved on to Shuk Mehane Yehuda, which I can proudly declare as my favorite shuk in the world.
Today it became much fancier than it was 5 years ago.. It is also much cleaner and prettier then shuk ha Carmel in Tel Aviv and it has the best bakery -Marzipan, with the tastiest chocolate rogalach! Many people even bring these as presents abroad.The funny thing was that after all these years the Marzipan owner still remembered me!

Rogalach. Stocking up for Shavuot!
Bourekas pizza and kashkoval cheese



The Halva Kingdom-Mamlechet haHalva. I have never ate such a fresh and tasty halva in my life in so many different flavors! Coffee taste was my favorite -worth every shekel :).
After finishing the grocery list we decided to try our luck at Azzura or Machneyeuda restaurant with no reservation. While Azzura serves home food, Machneyeuda is more upscale, though both are amazing restaurants.
Mechneyuda is located on 10 Beit Yaakov st, very much near the shuk. Surprisingly we were seated right away(but don't do this always book in advance) and the party has begun. Besides that the place serves high end dishes with a middle eastern twist to die for, the culinary experience happens to the sounds of mizrahi and old Israeli music like Eyal Golan, Mujda, Kaveret etc. to the point where the staff and the visitors start to sing and clap together. Very liberating and very Israeli - probably the best way to start your weekend if you are in Jerusalem.
The menu is written in a very folklorish slang.
The open kitchen
Calamary in balsamic reduction and many more..
Shkedey egel with malauwah

Risoto middle eastern way. Delicious.
For desert we took basbousa cake with tehina ice cream and fruit and of course cafe hafuch.I'm still wondering why it is so hard for New Yorkers to learn how to make a good coffee. Here I rarely put sugar in order not to ruin the taste of it. I also liked the vintage 'mix and match' style of cups they serve their coffees with.

I love ice creams in all kinds of unexpected flavors, tehina one was yammy.

Amazing service on a New York level with an Israeli twist :)
Totally full and satisfied we walked down Nahlaot neighborhood back to the car. It is amazing that I was passing here everyday and always took it as something movan meelav*, this time I was pretty much charmed. It is a very intimate neighborhood with relatively narrow streets and a very strong sense of community. It is especially beautiful during Hanukah, when you can see Hanukkia lights in every window and hear Hanukah songs.


Donny is somewhat tired, with groceries :).
Cute green balconies.

Our next stop should have been Mamila, but due to the time constrains with went directly to the Kotel.

At the entrance to Kotel. Women should be dressed appropriately with covered shoulders.
Continuing to the church of sepulcher for holy water and candles souvenirs. Tip: if you want to buy smth in the old city negotiate half of the given price, or go to the Old Jaffa flee market and buy it there even cheaper. Dont buy from the first store, but compare few of them to understand the prices and then bargain.
Replicas of Armenian Ceramics from Hevron, very fragile and doesn't survive well the dishwasher, but beautiful, no questions asked. 

The Church of the Holy Sepulcher
True or not, but these guys sell there little bottles of Holy Water. They say this water never goes bad , it cures and makes wonders. Has anybody ever tried? In any case we bought like 20 of them to give to coworkers and some friends. 
On the way out through the Jewish Quarter.

And now back home...

On the way to Tel-Aviv we passed through the  Latroune Monastery of silent monks(Latroune interchange from rout 1 to route 3 South) which is famous for its wine and olive oil produce. Prior to 6 day war Latroune was the only winery in Jordanian Kingdom and was exporting its wine everywhere across middle east. It is still harvested by hand only. Pinot Noir is one of the most known wines of the vineyard which have been produced for more then 40 years and is similar to the one from Burgundy.
Latroune itself is a very serene place, surrounded by a beautiful landscapes and plains as shown below, worth a visit.




We returned home just in time for Shavuot dinner tired and satisfied. Galushka greated us with a scream of happiness :).

Hebrew Vocabulary:
erev hag-Holiday Eve
savta-grandma
movan meelav-taken for granted





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